Add flour to bowl and dig a well in the centre.
Pour liquid, yeast, salt, sugar (if using) and oil (if using) into the well and give it a tiny stir so a little flour gets mixed into it. Let it sit for around 5 minutes.
Mix the liquids into the flour, then knead it for 10 minutes. Set a timer, put on some music, and knead until it feels smooth and stretchy.
Let it rise until it is doubled. This may take any time between 40 minutes and 2 hours, depending on your room temperature. In winter, it takes my dough 2 hours, sitting on the hot water tank.
Preheat oven to around 220°C -- though I have had it at 200° and 240°, variously. If you have a cast iron flat-pan or a baking stone, put it in now.
Place risen dough on a floured surface and shape it into a round- or, alternately, cut it into 4 smaller rounds. Press the round down gently with your hand so that it is about as thick as your wrist. Let the round(s) sit and rest for 15 minutes while the oven and baking stone heat.
Press an indentation in the centre of the flattened ball, leaving a ridge the width of the length of your thumb(ish). Poke lots of tiny holes in the indented centre with a fork- or with a chekich, if Uzbek Postal services are working properly. Brush with beaten egg or milk or oil or nothing. Sprinkle with sesame or nigella or nothing.
Bake for 15-20 minutes. Let cool before tearing into them.